April 21-April 27, Miles 109.4-166.3

I escaped the comforts of Franklin, NC on Easter Sunday, hitching a lift back to Winding Stair Gap. I felt refreshed after a couple of days in town and while there was still snow on the trail, the weather was warming up and the sun was shining. It felt great to be hiking again, and I’m finding my legs will basically do whatever I tell them now. I charged up the first mountain and got to the top of Siler Bald (the trees were cut off for cattle previously) for a fantastic view. During lunch I started to feel a little dizzy, which persisted much of the way down the hill. I decided that while my legs may be prepared to do whatever I told them, the rest of my body probably wasn’t yet. I’ve learned to take breaks even if my legs aren’t tired and that seems to help.

Much of this section was roller coaster mountains. It’s slow going up, and slow going down. Through much of this trail I have to wonder what the guy who charted it was thinking. The trail is practically designed to take you up the steepest track possible, only to bring you all the way down the other side just to do it again on the next hill. I’m convinced he must have been some sort of sadist. Usually I was treated to a sweet view at the top though. Many of the mountain tops have been cleared in the past by ranchers, giving them their surname “Bald”, as in Siler Bald. Unlike some of the other peaks in Georgia that were usually covered with trees, the Balds offer an incredible 360 degree view of the Appalachian Mountains.

The first shelter I reached was overflowing full, with tents practically set up on the trail. I knew there was another campsite about a mile up. I was exhausted but trudged on. My reward was an empty grass field all to myself with a great water source. Totally worth it.

Halfway to Fontana Dam is the NOC, or Nantahala Outdoor Center. It’s right near several rivers and there are rafting busses going by all the time. It’s a good place for hikers to get caught up with a meal, some more food (“resupply”), or equipment, as well as a printer for the permit needed to thru hike the Great Smokey Mountains National Park.

In a previous entry I think I made mention of my cousin Rachael who passed away last fall in a terrible weather-related accident and who is a large inspiration for my decision to do finally make this journey. I feel like she has been visiting me through nature… The dancing shadows of swallowtails fluttering in the sunbeam over my lunch spot, or the snake crossing the trail that stops and looks back at me, also wondering if I’m the good kind or the bad kind. These little encounters just make me think of my cousin.

Well, Rachael’s sister-in-law (who’s name is also Rachel without the a) happens to live in the area and is studying outdoor therapy. She met me at the NOC and offered me a spare room in her cabin for the night. A home cooked meal and a bed to sleep in was very much appreciated after sleeping on the ground for the last week. When we got to her cabin it was kind of late but she showed me around the property in the dark. She mentioned having parties there where the fireflies would synchronize with the music. By the power of suggestion, as soon as she said that I thought I saw fireflies! I asked her when they usually came, and as she told me they were usually in July, she saw it too. Before long we could see the whole forest blinking with fireflies. I think we both sensed Rachael’s presence there that night. Looking through pictures she had of Rachael and Sean and having someone to talk to about it was therapeutic and comforting. Rachel also snuck a fortune cookie into my bag that I found later which was eerily appropriate!

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Leaving the NOC to get back on the trail was rough, primarily due to the 3600 foot climb. I bypassed the shelter and was headed for the next campground when I realized it was going to be much later than I expected when I got there. As I reached the top of the full day of uphill there was an amazing summit with a bunch of people already camped out. I decided to stay there and set up my tent as the sun set. It was a gorgeous spot, camped on top of that mountain.

This section ends at Fontana Dam. The lake was visible for most of the last day of hiking, and even little peaks of the dam. The shelter there is called the Fontana Hilton, and has running water, electricity, and even hot showers. It was my first time sleeping in the actual shelter. Since I snore and fart and move around a lot and get up to pee every night, it’s generally better for everyone if I just sleep in my own tent. But because you’re required to sleep in the shelters through the smokeys (unless they’re full), I figured I should give it a try. I didn’t sleep much, but the chorus of sleeping noises going on made me less self conscious about my own contributions.

My first package I put together for myself was also shipped to Fontana Village, so I picked that up at the post office (only open 11:45-3:45 M-F, causing me to rush into town on Friday to avoid having to wait until Monday), did some laundry, dried out my tent from the rainy night before, and grabbed a beer and burger from the grill. Afterward, Hemingway and I got a shuttle back to where we left the trail at the marina and sent our packs on to the shelter with Strider and Cricket so we could slack-pack the last mile or so we missed. I’m glad we did since it was a gorgeous hike right on the lake while the sun was setting. It was perfect.

Next section is the Smokey Mountains. It’s 70 miles of rugged terrain and contains the highest point on the trail.

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